When it comes to investing in a new HVAC system, the answer of which system to buy is about “as clear as mud”. Purchasing any new appliance can be overwhelming, especially if it breaks suddenly. When it comes down to spending your hard-earned money and your everyday comfort, you clearly want to make the right choice.
There are so many different options to choose from when it comes to equipment: type, size, warranty, brand name, gas vs. electric, efficiency rating, features?!?! Even more questions come up as you meet different contractors, each telling you something a bit different. This guide is meant to help you as the homeowner: understand the equipment, know the lingo, and learn what it takes to make a wise and informed decision when purchasing a new HVAC system.

System Types

The two basic configurations of residential HVAC systems are split systems and package systems.

Split System

Consists of an indoor unit and a separate outdoor unit  connected by wiring and refrigerate lines

Packaged System

Consists of one unit outside, containing both the inside and outside components, packaged in one box

Variations

There are different variations of split and package systems, mainly depending on which fuel you choose to use. The main choices here would be electric, natural or propane gas, or both.

Air Conditioner– Designed to dehumidify and extract heat from your home. Utilizes electricity only.

Heat Pump– Like an air conditioner, heat pumps are designed to dehumidify and extract heat from your home. A heat pump, however, uses a reversing valve, which allows it to draw heat from the outdoor air in the winter time. Heat pumps are efficient at removing heat down to around 35-40 degrees. At that point, resistance heat or other means must be used to supplement. Utilizes electricity only.

Electric Resistance- Resistance heat transmits electricity though heating elements. As the elements heat up, the system’s blower is activated to distribute the heat through the air ducts. Electric resistance heat is often more expensive than heat produced by other means.

Gas Furnace- Designed to use combustible fossil fuels such as natural or propane gas to heat your home. Combustion occurs through burners inside a heat exchanger. Spent gasses are then expelled from the furnace. The system’s blower passes over the heat exchanger before it distributes air into the ducts.

Dual Fuel- Designed to utilize both electricity and fossil fuel. Uses a heat pump for primary heating down to the balance point (the temperature at which the heat pump begins to struggle to keep up), usually somewhere around 35-40 degrees Fahrenheit outdoor temperature.  The furnace then takes over to provide secondary heating.

Split System Components 

Remember that split systems are composed of separate indoor and outdoor sections. The indoor components are connected directly to the air ducts and contain the blower used to distribute the air. The outdoor portion contains the “heart” of the system, the compressor. The compressor is what pumps refrigerant through the components of the AC system, removing heat and humidity.

Every AC system contains two coils: the evaporator coil (indoor portion) and the condensing coil (outdoor portion). These coils are connected by copper refrigerate lines. This is a sealed system that contains a certain amount of refrigerant required for proper operation. Systems have service ports allowing technicians to check the amount of refrigerant in a system, adding or removing as necessary. The amount of refrigerant varies from system to system due to coil sizes and the length of copper line sets connecting them.

Outside components are usually fairly easy to spot. They are the noisy cubes sitting outside everyone’s house. These components are called condensers and are either strictly air conditioners or heat pumps. The differences in appearance are minimal and the untrained eye couldn’t tell the difference. An easy way to tell is if it runs during the winter, it’s probably a heat pump condenser, unless something’s wrong :)!

Depending on which fuel variation you choose, your split system could include these indoor components:

Air handler– contains the blower and evaporator coil

OR

Furnace– contains the blower, gas components, and heat exchanger

Coil– evaporator coil paired up with a furnace to complete the indoor section of the AC system; usually connected in between the furnace and the supply air duct

Package Systems

Package systems take these components and group them together under one housing. This is installed as a central unit on the outside of your home. It attaches to your duct system through the exterior wall. Package units vary just as split systems do. The most common are:

Package Heat Pump

Package Gas

Package Dual Fuel

All three of these variances contain the components needed for both heating and cooling operations. The only component inside the home would be the ductwork, which attaches directly to the unit, and the thermostat.

So now that you know the basic differences in equipment, we can move on to efficiency and what makes two seemingly similar looking systems much different.

 

Sizing

Equipment sizing is probably the most important factor when choosing equipment for a home. This can only be done by performing a Manual J load calculation. Through a complex series of calculations and inputs, the HVAC designer is able to analyze all aspects of the thermal characteristics of every wall, floor, ceiling, door and window. An HVAC load calculation also takes into consideration other factors such as the home’s geographic location, orientation to the sun, envelope tightness, duct leakage, lights and appliances.

Equipment is sized in tons (as in 12,000 BTU/ton). Residential systems vary from 1.5-5 tons. Keep in mind, bigger is not always better. A load calculation can tell you exactly what size your home needs, keeping energy costs down.

 

Efficiency

SEER Rating

System efficiency is something we might not think too much about when purchasing new equipment. But, it’s something you’ll definitely think about every month thereafter. Equipment efficiency is most often measured in SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) rating. The higher the SEER, the better the energy performance, the more you save. The Dept of Energy has set the minimum SEER rating for new equipment at 13. This rating will be raised to a minimum of 14 effective January 1, 2015. Units with a higher SEER rating cost more up front, but can save hundreds over the life of the unit.

*A split system’s SEER rating is derived from matching the outdoor unit and indoor units. These ratings can vary depending on how they are matched up. Ask your contractor for these ratings before you buy.

Air Ducts

Purchasing new equipment with a high efficiency rating doesn’t guarantee energy savings. Your home’s air ducts are nearly as important as the unit itself. Leaky, restricted, or improperly sized duct could result in significantly higher energy costs.

Repairing VS Replacing

In order to take advantage of a new high efficiency system, you must take your air ducts into consideration. EnergyStar reports that,

“In a typical house, about 20 to 30 percent of the air that moves through the duct system is lost due to leaks, holes, and poorly connected ducts. The result is higher utility bills and difficulty keeping the house comfortable, no matter how the thermostat is set.”

Taped seams can become dried out and connections can become loose over time. Duct sealing may be a good option for air ducts that are still structurally intact but have leakage. However, if your air ducts are 15-20 years old or in poor condition, you may looking at replacement. Ask a professional you trust to take a look and give a recommendation.

 

Brand Name

National advertising is prevalent for almost every commodity for the home. That being said, HVAC equipment manufacturers rarely do much advertising themselves. For the most part, you rarely hear of what brands of equipment are out there.

All HVAC equipment is basically the same components in different shells. Some manufacturers do have brand-specific patented components in them, like Trane’s spine-fin coil (pictured), but the majority of them are the same inside. Much like the auto industry, HVAC equipment manufacturers put out basically the same product under different names. Did you know that Trane, American Standard, and Ameristar are all subsidiaries of the same company, Ingersoll Rand?

So, does it really matter whose badge is plastered to the side of the box? Not really. What really matters is the company that will stand behind the product. Do they stand behind the products they install? How about the availability of parts when it breaks? Can it be fixed today? tomorrow? or in the next week? What about the warranty? Will it be out-of-pocket expense for these parts or are they covered? Good questions to ask before you buy.

 

Warranties

Equipment warranties differ from equipment variety and brand name. Most manufacturers offer a 10 year registered parts warranty with new equipment. Stainless steel heat exchangers often have either a 20 year or lifetime warranty. Refrigerant is usually not covered under warranty. Labor warranties are usually offered for a fee. Be sure to register all new equipment within a 30 day period to take advantage of the full warranty. Check with your contractor on warranty specifics.

About Your Heating and Cooling System

1 Bigger Is Always Better

Often families seek to purchase a bigger unit when they feel that their
current one is not doing the job. However, upsizing is often not the correct
solution. In fact, a unit that’s too big can actually cause your system to
cycle on and off more frequently without evenly distributing air, leading
to just as many problems as one that is too small.

2 Ductwork Doesn’t Play a Big Role In System Efficiency & Performance

Inconsistency among room temperatures, extended heating and cooling times
and high energy costs can all be attributed to improperly sized or leaky
ductwork. Consider ductwork to be one-half of your home’s heating and
cooling system. So, if your ductwork is not designed to distribute air evenly,
is improperly sized or is leaking air in several places, then your entire
system is performing at limited efficiency. To view more information about duct sealing, be sure to check out our article here.

3 Summer Comfort Can Be Achieved Just By Lowering the Thermostat

Every Middle Tennessee resident knows that our trademark humidity often
presents more of a comfort challenge than our 90°-100° temperatures.
Don’t touch the thermostat in hopes to get rid of it this Spring and
Summer, however. By its definition, an air conditioner—when operating
properly—is designed to both lower the temperature in your home
and reduce the humidity. If you’ve felt comfortable at 75° in your home
previously, but this year the air feels sticky, turning it down to 73° isn’t
going to make it better. More than likely, your system needs a maintenance
visit to clean the coils and check your refrigerant charge.

4 Preventative Maintenance Is Just a Sales Gimmick

Just like faithfully changing your car’s oil, research has proven that your
regular tune-ups can extend the life of your system.
To put that figure in perspective, it means purchasing a brand new unit less
often, equating to savings of thousands of dollars over a lifetime. That’s
money well spent on other things, like vacations or home improvements!

5 Almost Anyone Can Install An HVAC System

At first glance, it may seem fairly straightforward to install a HVAC
system—but guess again. It’s imperative to choose a trained professional
that will take the time and care to not overlook details that could turn into
problems down the road. Firstly, any contractor worth his salt will both
inspect your current equipment, duct system, and electrical connections as
well as run a load calculation on the area of the home the system serves.
Taking these steps ensures your unit is properly sized and up to current
local building code. Secondly, installers will be sure to put in your new
system correctly to make sure your family is both safe and comfortable.

 

Cooler weather is finally here. As sharp wind and frost welcomes us each morning, we quickly realize how much we truly depend on the comfort of our home.

Most of us “set it and forget it” only to think about it again when the utility bills come in the mail. Ouch, that hurts! Your heating system accounts for nearly half of your electric bill if you own a heat pump. If you are the type of homeowner who likes to save money by turning down the thermostat during the day and then back up again when you return, you might not be saving as much as you think.

If you own a heat pump system and adjust it back up to a warmer temperature when you arrive home, your electric auxiliary heat will have to kick in to supplement your heat pump, which is much less efficient at heating (HP efficiency vs. Electric is like 3 to 1).

The Answer? – A Programmable Thermostat:

By simply programming the thermostat with your daily schedule, it will automatically control your heating system, turning the temperature down when you leave, and bringing your home back up to temperature before you arrive back home. Some programmable thermostats have settings to control the auxiliary heat, keeping it from coming on during normal scheduled cycles. This means it will bring your home back up to temperature using only the heat pump and not the electric heat.

If you would like more information about getting a programmable thermostat installed in your home, feel free to contact us. If you feel a programmable thermostat isn’t right for you, you will be much better off keeping your home at a set temperature all the time.

Efficiency:  Is your system not as efficient as you’d like it to be?

If your heating system is 15-20 years old, replacing it could mean real savings every month (ex. 10 SEER system vs. 16 SEER = 6 SEER difference x 8-10% savings/mo per SEER = utility bill cut in half!

Maintenance is Key:  Ever came home to your heating system not working properly?

System failure seems to happen most often on the coldest days. When it breaks down you remember about the regularly scheduled system tune up that was offered when your system was first installed. Routine maintenance cannot only provide longer life for your system overall, but also cut down on monthly energy bills. If your system is over 2-3 years old and hasn’t been maintenanced, you need to do so. To find out more information about maintenance plans and what’s involved, visit our Maintenance Program page.

With a small investment, you can save hundreds on repair bills later. Neglect of changing out a simple $5 filter can lead to a dirty evaporator coil (and dirty ductwork). A dirty evaporator coil leads to an air-starved system. Starving the system of proper airflow can cause strain on blower motors, compressors, and other components. That $5 filter could eventually cost you hundreds in repairs. If you have trouble remembering to change your air filter, a good reminder is to change it every time you get your electric bill. Purchasing cheap throw-away filters and changing them every single month is much better than buying a 3-6 month filter and remembering to change it a year down the road.

Take a moment to think about your heating system and take care of any problems you see before you’re left in the cold. Stay warm!

Here are some coupons to help you save this heating season.

Troubleshooting your heating system.

This Q&A is aimed at answering the most called about issues with heating systems. A little troubleshooting on your end can help us quickly determine if something is wrong. It may be simple enough to solve with a little work on your end or even over the phone, saving you the time and money of a service call.

 

I see smoke coming from my unit outside. Should I be concerned?

If your heating system is a heat pump, it is more than likely entering what’s called “defrost” mode. Your heat pump operates by transferring heat from the outside into your home (heat can be still be transferred efficiently down to 30-35 degrees). When operating in cooler temperatures, the outside coil of your unit begins to form ice. To melt this ice, the system reverses the flow of refrigerant. The heat pump becomes inactive and your auxiliary heat automatically kicks in to supplement. A humming sound can be heard and steam begins to rise as the ice melts from the coil. After the ice on the coil is melted, the unit should switch back to heat pump mode and continue normal operation. This operation is completely normal operation.

 

My thermostat is showing “auxiliary” or “emergency” heat. What’s going on?

A heat pump has two methods of heating: heat pump and auxiliary. A heat pump is efficient down to around 30-35 degrees; below this point it begins to struggle.  To keep your home warm, supplemental heating (auxiliary) is needed. Electric heat strips automatically turn on to keep your home warm. When the auxiliary heat kicks in, it may be indicated on your thermostat. The best thing to do is to set your thermostat at a comfortable temperature and leave it alone. If auxiliary still shows constantly, there could be something wrong. Call us to take a look at your system.

If your thermostat indicates it is running on “emergency” heat, there could be a problem. There are some things to check before you call:

1. Check that your thermostat is not turned to Em. Heat. It should be turned to Heat.
2. Make sure your set point is within two degrees of your home’s actual temperature. Any time the set point is 2 degrees or more above the actual temperature, your electric heat turns on. Try adjusting the temperature within one degree; the auxiliary or emergency light should go off.

 

I feel cool air coming out of the registers.

Cool air from your vents could mean something simple or something more complicated. The simple fix is to flip the Fan switch into the Auto position. This will turn the blower on only when there is a call for heating. If this doesn’t solve the problem, or you don’t sense a change in airflow, there could be ductwork issues. Call us to have someone come out to check.

 

I don’t feel any air coming from the registers.

No airflow could mean one or more problems: major ductwork issues, a motor issue or failure, a dirty air filter, or a dirty coil.

First, check to see if your filter is dirty. Change it to see if airflow improves. Second, check to make sure your thermostat is set correctly. The thermostat should be turned on to the appropriate cycle and the temperature should be set above the temperature in the house. If there is no change, your system will need to be inspected.

 

I smell gas from my furnace. Should I be concerned?

            Furnaces are fueled by Natural or L.P. gas. The gas is brought in by black iron or copper pipe. Pipe joints are sealed by different methods: compression, pipe sealants, Teflon, etc. Over time, these joints may begin to form leaks as sealants deteriorate or the furnace moves or settles. Leaking gas may be detected if it is concentrated in a certain area for a period of time. You might notice it if you open a door to the closet where your furnace is located. If you sense a gas smell, you should turn off your furnace, leave the area, and call us to perform a leak check.

 

My furnace is not igniting or producing any heat.

There isn’t a simple answer here, as there could be a number of things going on. You could have an ignition problem permitting the furnace from operating. A fail-safe locks the furnace out, permitting it from turning back on for a short time. It would be best to let our technician come out to take a look.

 

If you feel your HVAC system is not performing the way it should, please contact us. We would be happy to help.

 

Heating and cooling our homes account for more than 50% of our energy cost.  We cringe when we see that heating bill in the cold winter months, when we know that our system has ran almost continuously.  In the winter, we take special effort to ensure that every window sill and door threshold is sealed up tightly.  We insulate our attics to capacity, going over every weatherization technique known to man.  We want every last bit of warm air to stay in our home.  The last thing you want to happen is to let that precious heat escape.

With this in mind, think about the duct work supplying your home.  Do you know that almost every duct system has leaks?  Even a well installed duct system can begin to leak overtime at joints and seams.

A proper load calculation actually takes air loss into consideration.  Air loss can be anywhere from around 5% up to 20% and more.  Imagine what that could mean for unit efficiency.  Units will begin to run longer, rooms may become different temperatures, and you may even notice more dust in your home than usual.  This is where duct sealing comes into play.  The goal here is to minimize the leakage.

The following is documented for your knowledge of how duct sealing actually works.  If you have any questions regarding duct sealing, please feel free to contact us.

 

Most HVAC Ducts Are Not Properly Sealed

 

Figures 1 & 2 show a common HVAC duct system.  This is an every day example of duct leakage.  Though it may not look like a lot, the evidence shows.  If you look closely, you may notice gaps where the duct that attaches to the unit.  Though it has fasteners securing it, it’s not enough to stop the the high pressure air coming out.

The Supply Duct

As you can see, the duct work here has been patched (figure 2, center).  The outline of the patch can be clearly seen on the yellow insulation that covers it.  The dark outline is dirt from the air stream.  The duct work shown here is the supply, which carries the conditioned air to the rooms in your home.  The air flows out of the supply duct as positive pressure.

You might be thinking, “Why is there dirt in the conditioned air?”.  There could be a couple reasons for this: one being that the filter is allowing contaminants through, the other would be holes and gaps in the return duct.  As the blower inside the unit pulls a negative pressure through the duct, it allows contaminants to make their way into any holes left open.

The Return Duct

Figure 3 shows the return duct.  It was left in the same condition as the supply.  Unsealed, it was allowing all the dust and dirt from the attic space into the air stream.

Properly Sealed Ducts

Ducts can be sealed in a few different ways, two of which are used most often: UL approved mastic tape and liquid mastic paste.  In this case, we used the UL approved tape in addition to some silicone caulking for the larger gaps.  After a little surface cleaning, the tape sticks well.  After passing a squeegee across the tape, it bonds securely.  Every seam and hole in the duct must be sealed.  Even the tiniest of holes allow contaminants into the air.  Figures 4 & 5 show how the duct was sealed.

Though it takes some work, you will notice a difference. Some improvements could be:

• Decrease in Dust
• Decrease in Allergens
• Increased Airflow
• Decrease in Smells
• Increase in Equipment Efficiency
• Decrease in Energy Bills
• Cleaner Coils Increase Life Expectancy of Equipment

If you would like more information on duct sealing please let us know. We would be happy to take a look at your system and give you our recommendations.

 

Top 10 No Cost Steps You Can Do This Summer

 

1. Turn up your cooling system’s thermostat to 75­­–78°F. Don’t pay to keep your
furniture cool — raise it even more when no one is home.

2. Perform a do-it-yourself energy audit. You can request a print version or
perform your audit on-line at www.energyright.com.

3. Lower your water heater temperature to 120°F and reduce hot water use by
taking shorter showers and using cold water for laundry whenever possible.

4. Turn off lights, televisions and other appliances when not in use.
Use the “sleep mode” on computers.

5­­. Remove and recycle your second refrigerator.

6. Keep curtains closed on the south, east and west sides of the house during
the day to help keep cool.

7. Clean refrigerator coils and set the temperature to 36° to 39°F and the
freezer to 0° to 5­­°F.

8. Use the microwave; it cooks faster and doesn’t create as much heat as
a stove burner.

9. Air-dry dishes instead of using the dishwasher’s heat drying option.

10. Run your dishwasher and clothes washer only when full.

 

Dirt and neglect are the top causes of heating and cooling system inefficiency and failure. To ensure efficient system operation, it’s important to perform routine maintenance.
Change your air filter regularly. A clean filter will prevent dust and dirt from
building up in the system, which can lead to expensive maintenance and/or
early system failure. Check your filter every month, especially during winter and
summer months, when use tends to be heavier. Change your filter if it’s dirty—
or at least every three months.
Tune up your HVAC equipment. Proper maintenance by a qualified technician is
one of the most important steps you can take to prevent future problems.
Contractors get busy during summer and winter months, so it is best to check
the cooling system in spring and the heating system in the fall. Plan the checkups around the beginning and end of daylight-saving time each spring and fall.

 

Overall System Maintenance Checklist

Your contractor should complete the following each spring and fall:

 

Check thermostat settings to ensure the heating and cooling system turns on and off at the programmed temperatures.

Tighten all electrical connections and measure voltage and current on motors. Faulty electrical connections can cause your system to operate unsafely and reduce the life of major components.

Lubricate moving parts. Parts that lack lubrication cause friction in motors
and increase the amount of electricity you use. Lack of lubrication can also
cause equipment to wear out more quickly, requiring more frequent repairs
or replacements.

Check and inspect the condensate drain in your central air conditioner, furnace, and/or heat pump (when in cooling mode). If plugged, the drain can cause water damage in the house, affect indoor humidity levels, and breed bacteria and mold.

Check system controls to ensure proper and safe operation. Check the starting
cycle of the equipment to assure the system starts, operates, and shuts
off properly.

Inspect, clean, or change the air filter in your central air conditioner, furnace,
and/or heat pump. Your contractor can show you how to do this yourself.
Depending on your system, your filter may be located in the duct system versus
the heating and cooling equipment itself.

 

Additional System-Specific Maintenance Activities

For Heating Systems:

Inspect the flue piping for rusting and any disconnections or evidence of
back drafting.
Check all gas (or oil) connections, gas pressure, burner combustion, and heat
exchanger. Improper burner operation can be caused by a dirty burner or a
cracked heat exchanger—either can cause the equipment to operate less safely
and efficiently. Leaking gas (or oil) connections are also a fire hazard and can
contribute to health problems.

For Cooling Systems:

Clean indoor and outdoor coils before warm weather starts. A dirty coil
reduces the system’s ability to cool your home and causes the system to run
longer, increasing your energy costs and shortening the life of your equipment.
Check your central air conditioner’s refrigerant charge and adjust it if
necessary to make sure it meets manufacturer specifications. Too much or too
little refrigerant charge can damage the compressor, reducing the life of your
equipment and increasing costs.
Clean and adjust blower components to provide proper system airflow. Proper
airflow over the indoor coil is necessary for efficient equipment operation
and reliability.

 

 

Taken as excerpt from EnergyStar.gov

Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio

The efficiency of central air conditioning systems is rated by a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER). In general, the higher the SEER, the less electricity the system needs to do its job.

SEER is a mathematically determined ratio of the total cooling capacity during normal periods of operation (not to exceed 12 months) divided by the total electric energy input during the same time period. More detail on the SEER calculation can be obtained inAHRI Standard 210/240.

Great strides have been made in the last 10 years to increase the efficiency of new air conditioners and heat pumps. SEER ratings for air conditioning and air-source heat pump systems manufactured today range from 13 SEER to 24 SEER, with the highest numbers indicating the most efficient units that offer the most energy savings year after year.

The government in 1992 established the minimum seasonal energy efficiency standard for units manufactured in the United States at 10 SEER. The minimum SEER value changed again on January 23, 2006 to 13 SEER.

AHRI lists the certified energy efficiency ratings for specific equipment in its online AHRI Directory of Certified Product Performance. To obtain that certified efficiency rating, though, it is important that a contractor install a system properly. Only certified matched systemsare listed in the directory. Ask your contractor for either an AHRI Certified Reference Number or a AHRI Certificate of Product Ratings to confirm that the system being installed in your home is properly matched to achieve its certified efficiency rating.

 

UPDATE:

Effective May 1, 2013, the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) will enforce a new standard.  A minimum requirement of 14 SEER must be met.  All of the new requirements are listed below.

 

April 2012

Spring is here and it’s time to freshen up and clean up! Though spring makes its introduction with vibrant colors and fresh air, it also brings forth pollen and allergens. However, you can take preventative steps to ensure you and your family suffer less this season with the right air filtration. Though you might be tempted by the countless household appliances promising you cleaner air, you really need to focus your attention to the source of your indoor air: your air duct. The duct itself might need cleaning, but chances are, if you change your filter regularly, it doesn’t. It all comes down to how you filter the unfiltered air. Let’s take a look at some different ways of air filtration and cleaning.

• Pleated Filters
• Whole House Media Filters
• Electronic Air Cleaners
• UV Lights
• Trane CleanEffects

The initial cost of these products range in price from around $50 to $1000. As usual, the more you spend, the more allergens, pollen, smoke, etc. that is filtered. With all the choices, you may think it would be easier to buy and install the 1″ pleated “allergy” filters. But be careful, you could cause harm to your system by restricting the airflow it needs. An easy way to test for adequate airflow is to try this: When you install a new allergy filter, see if the filter quickly suctions to the back of the grill; if it does, consider using either a regular 1″ fiberglass filter, changing it once a month, or call us about a 4″ pleated filter which makes up a much larger surface area of filter space. The 4″ filters will usually last anywhere from around 6 months to a year and will do a much better job of filtering than a 1″ and will still allow for adequate airflow. The great thing about these filters is that they are surrounded by a one inch lip, letting them fit into your existing return grill.

Blake